Showing posts with label Parma. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Parma. Show all posts

Monday, April 28, 2025

80 Years Ago Today: Last Days of Mussolini and the Axis Powers

"War is delightful to those who have had no experience of it."--Erasmus

Liberation Day, April 25, 2023. Three men wearing
the uniforms of the Resistance fighters of the North.
Today is the 80th anniversary of the death of Mussolini. On 25 April he fled Milan, where he had been based, and headed towards the Swiss border. He and his mistress, Claretta Petcci, were captured on 27 April by local partisans near the village of Dong on Lake Como. Mussolini and Petacci were executed the following afternoon, two days before Adolf Hitler's suicide.  

The bodies of Mussolini and Petacci were taken to Milan and left in a suburban square, the Piazzale Loreto, where a large angry crowd insulted and physically abuse. They were then hung upside down from a metal girder above a service station on the square.  

These were epic times, the culmination of the war in Europe. My father-in-law, Wilmer "Bud" Wagner, as a front line company agent in the Red Bull Division, had the opportunity to go see the bodies of Mussolini and his mistress, but he declined. He'd seen enough gore, having been on the first convoy to cross the Atlantic for the European Theater, fighting the Germans across North Africa to the toe of Italy and all the way up the boot.

All throughout he'd kept a diary, which later became a book, And There Shall Be Wars. Here are diary entries from those fateful days, along with additional commentary for context.

* * * * * 

Friday, April 27, 1945

Had to make one trip to Division Artillery last night around 1:00 a.m.  Took less than an hour.  Raining this morning, rained quite a bit during the night.  

Moved again, raining most of the day.  Several more trips to Division Artillery.

Both 5th and 8th Army units have been pouring across the Po and into the valley for 3 days; there's little or nothing now the Germans can do.  I'm thinking now when I see hay being made, that with luck, I'll be home even this summer helping make some more of it.


On April 25, the U.S. 1st Army met up with the Soviet forces at Torgau on the Elbe.  The U.S. 3rd Army crossed the Danube near Regensburg, and was attacked there.  Berlin had been entered in the south and the east.

Saturday, April 28, 1945

We moved on to #9 again today, in kind of an assembly area. Nice place alongside the road.

Several trips to Division Artillery. A pretty girl came up to talk -- she could speak German. Always nice to talk a little to them.  

As far as I can tell, we came through Modena and Parma, maybe farther.


It was nice to go through Modena, a city of over 150,000.  There were no old, narrow streets here, and there was a really tall 290 foot Cathedral.  Parma was another city worth forfeiting a furlough in order to see.  It looked modern, with straight streets.  The people were wild for the Americans.  Both Modena and Parma were Roman colonies before Christ. 

Seeing these cities had to have been a part of the glory of war -- there wasn't much glory in the shooting, killing, seeing the wounded, the mud, or slowly advancing toward the front.  That's where the fear, and the sickly feeling, and the wondering of "Why are we doing this?" comes in instead of glory.  As Desiderius Erasmus said a few hundred years ago, "War is delightful to those who have had no experience of it."

I was also happy to be out of the mountains.  I'd seen enough of mountains to last me a lifetime, and I still prefer the valleys.  The hills in Duluth are all I want to climb nowadays.

An ersatz surrender ceremony affecting all troops fighting in Italy took place at 2:00 p.m. on April 28.  The ceremony was kept somewhat secret; the German officers were dressed in civilian clothes, and were acting on their own.  A German Major and Lieutenant Colonel appeared at the peace table grim-faced before General Morgan and many other high-ranking American and British officers.  Their muscles were taut, their hands were clenched fiercely together behind their backs, and they had an "I hate you" expression on their face, just opposite of most of the low- ranking prisoners I had hauled to the rear.  

The German Lieutenant Colonel said for the record that he had received only limited powers from his Commander in Chief, and that he was being forced to overstep those limits.  He assumed his Commander would approve his action, but said he could not be sure if this was the case.

General Morgan just told him casually, "We accept those conditions."

The Germans sat and signed 5 copies of the surrender documents, and General Morgan signed them last.  The Germans left swiftly, and the ceremony was over at 2:17.


Sunday, April 29, 1945

A day I won't forget for awhile.  Up at 7:00.  

Pulled out at 8:30.  Made 172 miles.  Cold and windy.  Really enjoyed it, though.  Thick groves of people lined the road all the way.  Many beautiful girls, and well-dressed adults and younger people, all waving and cheering.  Some close enough to you hold out their hands to touch yours.  

Saw thousands of German prisoners.  I counted 35 heavily loaded vehicles with Jerry prisoners, some high ranking officers, also nurses, all standing in their trucks, with Kraut drivers heading north.  

We just crossed the Po again today, as wide as the Missouri River. We're at the foot of the Alps; they tower high in the distance, capped with snow, sure glad we don't have to chase Jerry through the Brenner Pass.  We'd heard about that place.  

We parked in a court yard for the night.  Was a hard day, but nice driving on a good road, and made good time. Tom McGee rode with me.


Monday, April 30, 1945

Layed around most of the day, but went to Division Artillery several times.  They are in a large town.  It seems we were supposed to get to Bergamo, but I'm not sure.  I don't think the Krauts who we heard were waiting there to ambush us are going to -- after all, the Germans are heading homewards.

We are close to, or in the outskirts of Milan.  All the Italians are chanting "Finito, Benito!" and he is pretty well finished, all right.  He and his mistress Clare Petacci are hanging by their heels in the main square of Milan for all to see.  Dick and I were going to go, but we changed our minds.  Some of our fellows went to see Benito and his girl friend, and said it was a pretty gory sight.  It seems this couple was almost in Switzerland on vacation when they were intercepted.


Related Links

Bud Wagner's And There Shall Be Wars

Liberation Day: Italy Celebrates Victory Over Fascism, With Expressions of Gratitude to the U.S.

Friday, March 21, 2025

The Enigmatic Whisper: Da Vinci’s La Scapigliata

Photo by the author
From the first time I saw Da Vinci’s La Scapigliata in an art book I loved it. Beauty and simplicity co-mingled. Though aware of it for more than half a century, I never dreamed that I would actually one day see it. Here's a little background about the painting, followed by an anecdote about that unanticipated encounter.

Leonardo da Vinci’s Head of a Woman, dubbed La Scapigliata—the disheveled one—hangs on a wall in Parma’s Galleria Nazionale, an unfinished marvel from around 1508. It’s not the Mona Lisa with her poised enigma or lavish scenery; it’s rawer, simpler—a woman’s face emerging from earthy browns and ambers, her wild hair swirling like wind-tossed waves. For art lovers, it’s a jolt.

The sketchiness is what hooks you. Leonardo’s brush dances, half-formed, as if he paused mid-breath. Her hair spills free, untamed, framing a face with eyes turned away. Sfumato softens her edges, blurring lines so she floats, ethereal yet rooted. It’s not a finished portrait; it’s a moment—genius caught off-guard, teetering between thought and stroke. The tension is magnetic.


From my very earliest years I've been fascinated by this magical power artists have of conveying three dimensional objects on two dimensional surfaces. See how the light makes her face glow, how the face emerges from the background.


A Wikipedia entry states the work was "mentioned for the first time in the House of Gonzaga collection in 1627. It is perhaps the same work that Ippolito Calandra, in 1531, suggested to hang in the bedroom of Margaret Paleologa, wife of Federico II Gonzaga. In 1501, the marquesses wrote to Pietro Novellara asking if Leonardo could paint a Madonna for her private studiolo.


Some have called her a study, perhaps for a lost Leda and the Swan, but she feels too whole in her incompleteness. The delicate cheekbones with the light brushing her skin conveys an intimacy, like a secret shared. She’s no icon on a pedestal; she’s a muse, human and fleeting. 


Art lovers chase that paradox—timeless yet fragile, simple yet profound. She doesn’t demand attention like Picasso's Guernica or Michelangelo's David; she just is.  


I'd come to Parma after three full days of gettng dazed with paintings and sculptures in Florence. After taking in some of the history and architecture for a couple days I ventured into the Galleria Nazionale, which was directly across the street from the very inexpensive AirBnB I'd booked. As I walked and gawked, my brain slowly began to fog, overwhelmed by everything I was taking in. While walking down a huge hallway in my "eyes glazed" state, I was stopped in my tracks by the presence of this gem, which--I should note--everyone else was walking past without seeming to even notice. There were no big signs saying "Look!" or "Check this out." It was just another painting for visitors already inebriated by art.


What surprised me was how small it was, painted on a small walnut wood panel, measuring only 9.7 x 8.3 inches.  What also amazed me was that the painting was behind a plexiglas shield that enabled me to stand with my nose just inches from this painting. Somewhere I read that her expression was like a faint smirk, but I didn't read it that way. I see angelic modesty mixed with mystery. 


As with the Mona Lisa, I suspect her mystery is the point. Da Vinci left her undone, and that’s her magic. 


If you haven't yet grasped it, this was a very special moment for me. And just one more reason I fell in love with Italy.

Wednesday, January 24, 2024

Snapshots from Parma, 2023--A Catalog of Memories

Every picture tells a story.

DaVinci's Head of a Woman.(La Scapigliata)
This was amazing... Especially from six inches away.

Thank you, Parma.

Related Link:

18 Blog Posts about My Adventures in Italy

“Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life.”
--
Anna Akhmatov

April 2023 I traveled to Italy for the first time in my life. For reasons I can only guess I’ve always felt an inward desire to one day visit this magical place. How marvelous it was when on my 70th birthday I received an all expenses paid trip to Italy from my daughter.


While there I scrawled 40 pages of notes and took what seems like a thousand photos. Upon my return I began processing my experience by writing about it on my Ennyman’s Territory blog. Assembling them here in one place enables me to share them with a single link.


1. Initial Thoughts after my first trip to Italy

2. A Brief Overview of My Italy Adventure

3. 850 Years Old and Still Looking Good: The Battistero di Parma
4. The Galileo Museum in Florence Is Worthwhile Destination

5. Liberation Day: Italy Celebrates Victory Over Fascism, With Expressions of Gratitude to the U.S.

6. 1000 Rooms of Splendor: The Palazzo Pitti
7. Bob Dylan in Italy

8. The Death of Galileo

9. The Scarpelli Mosaici

10. Michelangelo’s David… A Showstopper

11. Daniela Meza Sigala: Florence Artist’s Seriously Whimsical Paintings

12. The Teatro Farnese in Parma

13. The Duomo in Florence: A History, plus Photos

14. One of the Most Famous Paintings in Florence: Ecce Homo (Behold the Man), by Antonio Ciseri

15. The Bargello: Another “Must See” Museum In Florence

16. L’Ippogrifo Stampe d’Arte: Mastery of a Grand Tradition

17. Snapshots from Parma, 2023--A Catalog of Memories
18. The Enigmatic Whisper: Da Vinci’s La Scapigliata

If you've never been, add it to your bucket list.



Friday, December 1, 2023

Flashback Friday: Italy

It's well known that Florence played a central role in the birth of the Renaissance. During my visit to Italy this past spring I learned about the various factors that converged to foster an environment conducive to intellectual and artistic flourishing. These factors included economic prosperity, patronage of the arts, political stability and civic pride.

While there I learned how much the Florentines valued intellectual exchange and the love of learning. Purportedly the literacy rate in Florence was twice that of other cities in Europe and Italy itself. (EdNote: I read this in a book about booksellers row during the Renaissance. Fact-checkers are welcome to correct me here.) Books were highly valued and ancient books most of all.

All this to say that my selection of Florence as a destination was richly rewarded when I planned my Italy trip, a 70th birthday gift from my daughter and son-in-law, this past spring. While there I took 40 pages of notes and what seemed like a thousand photos. Upon my return I began processing my experience by writing about it. Here are 16 blog posts about my trip abroad.

1. Initial Thoughts after my first trip to Italy

2. A Brief Overview of My Italy Adventure

3. 850 Years Old and Still Looking Good: The Battistero di Parma
4. The Galileo Museum in Florence Is Worthwhile Destination

5. Liberation Day: Italy Celebrates Victory Over Fascism, With Expressions of Gratitude to the U.S.

6. 1000 Rooms of Splendor: The Palazzo Pitti
7. Bob Dylan in Italy

8. The Death of Galileo

9. The Scarpelli Mosaici

10. Michelangelo’s David… A Showstopper

11. Daniela Meza Sigala: Florence Artist’s Seriously Whimsical Paintings

12. The Teatro Farnese in Parma

13. The Duomo in Florence: A History, plus Photos

14. One of the Most Famous Paintings in Florence: Ecce Homo (Behold the Man), by Antonio Ciseri

15. The Bargello: Another “Must See” Museum In Florence

16. L’Ippogrifo Stampe d’Arte: Mastery of a Grand Tradition 


Have you been to Italy? 

Where should I go next?
Leave a comment.


Tuesday, June 6, 2023

The Teatro Farnese in Parma, Italy

When I visited Parma my AirBnB was directly across the street from the National Gallery. I loved Parma and as I look through my photos I see that I still have so much to share. This blog entry is but an introduction to the Teatro Farnese, which is now preserved inside the Palazzo della Pilotta where the National Gallery is located. The theater is one of three grand Renaissance theaters still in existence today. 

The theater was built in 1618. At the time of its construction it was considered one of the most advanced theaters in Europe. The impetus for creating this grand theater came from the Duke of Parma and Piacenza Panucci I Farnese. The Teatro Farnese was used for operas (Parma is famous for its love of opera), plays, and ballets. It was also used for political events, including the wedding of Ranuccio II Farnese and Margherita de' Medici in 1628. The theatre was also used for private events, such as banquets and parties.

The theatre was almost destroyed by an Allied air raid during World War II (1944). Eventually rebuilt, it reopened in 1962 and is still in use today.

One of the nearby restaurants is called the Farnese.
Brenda was my server. And the meal was very good.


All photos on this page are my own except the one at the top of the page by www.bestofcinqueterre.com - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0

Monday, June 5, 2023

Books Books Books -- Photos from Bookstores in Parma

My Brother Vincent, by his sister Elisabeth
Vincent van Gogh... not the way I've usually pictured him.
I have this book on my own shelf... in English. Without Feathers
No surprise to see books about Fellini.
Rilke, Tolstoy and other familiar names were everywhere.
Warnings from Orwell.
I thought this an interesting find in an Italian bookstore.
I first saw this book on the bookshelf of author Margi Preus.
I thought this hilarious. In English Wilde's play is The Importance of Being Earnest
Parma earned national respect for its resistance to fascism in 1922.
Elmore Leonard has been a favorite writer of mine in the past.
Hollywood has translated nearly 20 of his books into film.
James Hilton's famous story of Shangri-La: Lost Horizon 


To see more stories from my Italy Adventure visit

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