These photos were taken at an M C Escher exhibition that I visited when I was in Florence. There were many surprises, one of the biggest being how many album covers and businesses used his design concepts.

These photos were taken at an M C Escher exhibition that I visited when I was in Florence. There were many surprises, one of the biggest being how many album covers and businesses used his design concepts.

John Evans had always been a history buff and often dreamed of traveling to places he'd read about. Whenever asked where he'd go first if he were able, he said he'd always felt an inexplicable pull to Florence, Italy. On his 30th birthday, he made up his mind. He was single again. He had no debts and was done with grieving over his latest failed relationship. It was time.
For months, he immersed himself in books about the city’s Renaissance glory, captivated by its art, architecture and the powerful Medici family. His luck in securing an Airbnb only a block from the Uffizi, in a building dating to the fourth century, seemed almost fated.
On his second morning in Florence, John woke disoriented, his head pounding. The modern comforts of his Airbnb—including his iPhone and the outlet he’d plugged it into—were gone. The room was stark, with stone walls and heavy wooden furniture. A chill gripped him as he stumbled to the window. Below, horse-drawn carriages clattered through narrow streets, and people in Renaissance garb bustled about. This wasn’t jet lag. Nor was it his Airbnb. Had he slipped into a dream—or another time?
Heart racing, John stepped outside, dodging piles of horse dung. The air was thick with the scent of leather and woodsmoke. Passersby gawked at his modern clothes, their archaic Italian unintelligible despite his rudimentary language skills. “Mi scusi, parla inglese?” he tried, but their rapid replies left him lost.
Wandering into the Piazza del Duomo, John spotted a group of finely dressed men in heated discussion. Desperate, he approached. To his shock, they welcomed him warmly, though their eyes lingered on his strange attire. “Non capisco,” John said, shrugging. The shortest man, clearly the leader, laughed and said, “Venire. Unisciti a noi.” He gestured to another. “Lorenzo.”
John froze. “Lorenzo Medici?” The men stepped back, eyes wide. “Conosci i Medici?” one asked. Before John could process, he blurted, “Do you know Machiavelli?” in English.
The short man’s gaze sharpened. “Niccolò Machiavelli? Sono io. Cosa vuoi?”
John’s knees buckled. He was in Renaissance Florence, face-to-face with Machiavelli and the Medicis. Stranger still, words began forming in his mouth in their archaic Italian. “Ho studiato il tuo libro,” he said, awestruck.
John, realizing his mistake, stammered, “Chiedo scusa. One day, it will be read worldwide—even in America.”
“America?” Machiavelli scoffed. “Did Amerigo Vespucci send you?”
John hesitated. Should he mention the continents named after Vespucci? Instead, he let the moment pass, overwhelmed by the vibrant city around him—palaces, statues, bustling markets, and the moment.
Within weeks, he adapted, his newfound fluency in archaic Italian easing his way. The Medicis, intrigued by this odd stranger, took him in. He befriended artists and merchants, and fell in love with Maria, a sharp-witted woman enchanted by his tales of the future—flying machines, world wars, and a baffling thing called the “Internet.” She laughed off his mention of Galileo as “that madman from Pisa.”
John grew to love this world, marrying Maria and naming their newborn son Leonardo. But a dream of his mother urging him to return home cast a shadow over his joy. He sensed his time was running out.
One evening, dining with Machiavelli behind the Uffizi, Niccolò leaned in. “The world is stranger than I imagined. I’m starting to believe you’re not mad. Last night, I dreamed of you—here, in this very spot.”
John’s gaze drifted to a cluster of buildings. He’d been here before. Machiavelli clasped his hand with both of his. “Grazzi,” he said, voice heavy with farewell, pointing to a door. An unseen force pulled John forward. He stepped through—and found himself in the foyer of his Airbnb, iPhone still plugged into the outlet, modern Florence humming outside. Tears welled as he thought of Maria and Leonardo, now centuries gone.
On his flight home, John read an article in The Atlantic about a discovery: a folio of Machiavelli’s unpublished writings, describing a man named John from the future who lived among the Medicis. Experts, initially skeptical, confirmed the paper and ink matched Machiavelli’s time period. The article also revealed Leonardo DiCaprio’s genealogical research, tracing his lineage to a Florentine couple from the Medici era: a woman named Maria and a man named John, who claimed to be from America.
Back in the States, a memory nagged at John. In the 1990s, he’d traced his family tree, uncovering no royal roots. Still, he found it a satisfying experience. Years later, at a 2008 cocktail party, friends raved about genetic ancestry tests. Curious, John submitted his DNA to Ancestry.com. The results revealed an Italian lineage tied to a sailor shipwrecked off Dover in the Napoleonic era. Tracing further, John’s heart stopped. That sailor’s roots led back to Renaissance Florence—to a man named John, married to a woman named Maria, father of of a son named Leonardo.
Could this really be, that he was his own ancestor, caught in a paradox of time?
copyright 2025: ed newman
“Italy is a dream that keeps returning for the rest of your life.”
--Anna Akhmatov
April 2023 I traveled to Italy for the first time in my life. For reasons I can only guess I’ve always felt an inward desire to one day visit this magical place. How marvelous it was when on my 70th birthday I received an all expenses paid trip to Italy from my daughter.
While there I scrawled 40 pages of notes and took what seems like a thousand photos. Upon my return I began processing my experience by writing about it on my Ennyman’s Territory blog. Assembling them here in one place enables me to share them with a single link.
1. Initial Thoughts after my first trip to Italy
2. A Brief Overview of My Italy Adventure
3. 850 Years Old and Still Looking Good: The Battistero di Parma
4. The Galileo Museum in Florence Is Worthwhile Destination
5. Liberation Day: Italy Celebrates Victory Over Fascism, With Expressions of Gratitude to the U.S.
6. 1000 Rooms of Splendor: The Palazzo Pitti
7. Bob Dylan in Italy
10. Michelangelo’s David… A Showstopper
11. Daniela Meza Sigala: Florence Artist’s Seriously Whimsical Paintings
12. The Teatro Farnese in Parma
13. The Duomo in Florence: A History, plus Photos
14. One of the Most Famous Paintings in Florence: Ecce Homo (Behold the Man), by Antonio Ciseri
15. The Bargello: Another “Must See” Museum In Florence
16. L’Ippogrifo Stampe d’Arte: Mastery of a Grand Tradition
17. Snapshots from Parma, 2023--A Catalog of Memories
18. The Enigmatic Whisper: Da Vinci’s La Scapigliata
If you've never been, add it to your bucket list.
It's well known that Florence played a central role in the birth of the Renaissance. During my visit to Italy this past spring I learned about the various factors that converged to foster an environment conducive to intellectual and artistic flourishing. These factors included economic prosperity, patronage of the arts, political stability and civic pride.
While there I learned how much the Florentines valued intellectual exchange and the love of learning. Purportedly the literacy rate in Florence was twice that of other cities in Europe and Italy itself. (EdNote: I read this in a book about booksellers row during the Renaissance. Fact-checkers are welcome to correct me here.) Books were highly valued and ancient books most of all.
All this to say that my selection of Florence as a destination was richly rewarded when I planned my Italy trip, a 70th birthday gift from my daughter and son-in-law, this past spring. While there I took 40 pages of notes and what seemed like a thousand photos. Upon my return I began processing my experience by writing about it. Here are 16 blog posts about my trip abroad.
1. Initial Thoughts after my first trip to Italy
2. A Brief Overview of My Italy Adventure
3. 850 Years Old and Still Looking Good: The Battistero di Parma
4. The Galileo Museum in Florence Is Worthwhile Destination
5. Liberation Day: Italy Celebrates Victory Over Fascism, With Expressions of Gratitude to the U.S.
6. 1000 Rooms of Splendor: The Palazzo Pitti
7. Bob Dylan in Italy
10. Michelangelo’s David… A Showstopper
11. Daniela Meza Sigala: Florence Artist’s Seriously Whimsical Paintings
12. The Teatro Farnese in Parma
13. The Duomo in Florence: A History, plus Photos
14. One of the Most Famous Paintings in Florence: Ecce Homo (Behold the Man), by Antonio Ciseri
15. The Bargello: Another “Must See” Museum In Florence
16. L’Ippogrifo Stampe d’Arte: Mastery of a Grand Tradition
Have you been to Italy?
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| Gianni Raffaelli |
Some of the most famous engravers of the 15th and 16th centuries include Martin Schongauer, Albrecht Dürer, and Lucas van Leyden. These artists created highly detailed and elaborate prints that were prized by collectors.
When I was in college I took an introduction to printmaking class in which I learned some of the techniques artist use to reproduce their work. Though I barely scratched the surface, I recognized the possibilities and developed a keen appreciation for those who have mastered the craft like Gianni Raffaelli of L'Ippogrifo Stampe d'Arte. Along with his wife Francesca and son Duccio, they work out of a studio on the West side of the Arno River in Florence.
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| Duccio Raffaelli |
* * *
Artists have been using engraving to make art prints for over 500 years. The earliest known engraved print dates back to 1446, and the technique quickly became popular throughout Europe. Engraving was particularly well-suited for reproducing paintings and other works of art as well as maps, book illustrations and religious subjects.
Engraving continued to be a popular printmaking technique throughout the 17th and 18th centuries. Some of the most famous engravers of this period include Rembrandt, William Hogarth, and Francisco Goya. These artists used engraving to create a wide range of prints, including portraits, landscapes, and satirical images.
If you're a lover of art, Florence is a "must see" destination for your bucket list. Pace yourself. Go slow. Leave half of your days unscheduled so that you might discover the many other gems this city of treasures contains, such as the Scarpelli Florentine Mosaic Workshop, the Daniela Meza Sigala's gallery/studio and this one, the L'Ippogrifo Stampe d'Arte.
This last photo (below) is of an incredibly detailed image that Gianni Raffaelli created during the Year of Covid. Art can be a way that people process difficult emotions and experiences.* This particular piece, with its Escheresque influences was Raffaelli's way to lose himself in a project that consumed his time and demanded his attention during that difficult year. It's a visual delight.
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| Gianni Raffaelli of L'Ippogrifo Stampe d'Arte |
John Evans had always been fascinated by history, and the city of Florence in Italy seemed the perfect vacation destination for him. He had planned his trip for months, reading every book he could find on the city and its rich cultural heritage. From the first moment his feet touched the pavement he felt he was home.
On the morning of his second day in Florence, John woke up feeling disoriented. He sat up in bed at the AirBnB he'd found two blocks from the Duomo, and rubbed his eyes, trying to shake off the grogginess. But as he looked around the room, he realized that something was very wrong. The furniture was different, the walls were made of stone, and there was no electricity. When he looked for his iPhone it wasn't anywhere to be found. In fact, he couldn't even find the outlet he'd plugged it into the night before. A chill run down his spine.
He stumbled out of bed and bolted to the window. To his amazement, he saw a bustling city street below. Instead of squads of tourists he saw the narrow street alive with people dressed in clothes from another era. His first thought was that he'd awakened somewhere in Hollywood and was on a film set. Could he actually have been transported back in time?
John was wide awake now as he went outside. He began to wander the streets while trying to make sense of his situation. As he walked, he noticed that people were staring at him, puzzled by his strange appearance and unfamiliar clothing. "Mi scusi," he said to the first few people he encountered. "Parla inglesi?"
Their replies made no sense to him. He couldn't understand the language and wished he'd been better prepared for this trip to Italy. (He'd wisely memorized a few essential words.) Each and every one spent half their time glancing up and down his attire in bafflement. A few asked where he was from but they spoke so quickly he couldn't understand a word.
Eventually, John found himself in the Piazza del Duomo where he saw a group of well-dressed men in an animated discussion. He approached them tentatively and asked for their help. To his surprise, they welcomed him warmly and offered to take him in, but he couldn't grasp what they were saying.
"No copisco," he said with a shrug, his face conveying that universal expression of confusion.
The men laughed heartily at this. One extended his hand and said, "Venire. Unisciti a noi." (That is, "Come. Join us.") The shortest of the four men made several quick commands to the others, citing one of them by name.
John couldn't believe it. "Medici?"
At this, all four stared at him, their eyebrows raised.
"Conosci i Medici?"
John suddenly realized he'd traveled back to the time of the Medicis. "Do you know Machiavelli?" he blurted out, not realizing he'd spoken in English.
The short man glared at him. "Niccolò Machiavelli?"
The American hesitated before answering.
"Sono Niccolò Machiavelli. Cosa vuoi?" (Trans. "I am Niccolò Machiavelli. What do you want?")
John bowed deeply. "I studied your book when I was in school," he said.
Their blank stares indicated he'd spoken in English again. And that's when the real remarkable thing began to happen. Words were forming in his mouth before he spoke them. In Italian! "Ho studiato il tuo libro quando ero a scuola."
The Medici turned to face his friend, placing a hand on his shoulder. "Niccolò? You've written a book?" (He said this in Italian, of course.)
Machiavelli now stared into John's eyes with suspicion. "How did you know this? No one has yet seen a word of it."
"Chiedo scusa." ( Trans. "I beg your pardon.") "One day people all over the world will be reading this book. Even in America."
"What! Did Amerigo put you up to this?"
John again looked perplexed.
"Amerigo Vespucci. He lives down by the Arno." (For those unfamiliar, the Arno is a river that runs through Florence.)
John sighed. He didn't know whether to tell them that one day two continents would be named after that man... North and South America.
Having finally realized that he had traveled back in time to the era of the Medicis, one of the most powerful and influential families in Italian history, he was prepared to accept his fate. He was amazed by the beauty and splendor of the city, with its magnificent cathedral, bustling markets, public art and vibrant energy.
Over the next few weeks, John immersed himself in this birthplace of the Renaissance, learning about their art, architecture, politics, and daily life. He heard about Booksellers Row and was given permission to handle a Greek manuscript and ancient scrolls from the time of the Greeks. He made new friends and also fell in love with a young woman named Maria who was equally fascinated by this stranger from the future who told them stories about Galileo ("He's a crazy old buzzard from Pisa," she said.) and Da Vinci and flying machines and World Wars, though he was stumped when it came to trying to describe the Internet and Social Media.
As days turned into weeks, John began to realize that he didn't want to leave this world. He believed he was home when he first arrived in Florence, but now he thoroughly felt himself to be home. After a couple months he began courting Maria and eventually, with a new sense of purpose, started a new family.
Shortly before his son was born he had an unsettling dream. Though strange in its particulars, he took it as an omen. In his heart he knew he couldn't stay here forever. Maria's love was strong, though, and when he saw the infant for the first time he wept. "Can we call him Leonardo?"
Maria said, "Sì, lo chiameremo Leonardo."
He knew that life is a miracle and a gift, but this was something he had not been prepared for.
In the end, John did find his way back to the present day. It happened like this. As he was walking with his friend Niccolò, Machiavelli began telling him that the world is more strange than he'd ever considered. "As crazy as it sounds, I'm starting to believe you're not really mad. And you'll never guess the dream I had last night."
"I'm sure I won't," Evans said. "Tell me."
"Well, it happened right over here behind this chapel."
Uncomprehending, John Evans stared down a narrow street there and realized something. He had been here before.
Niccolò clasped his hand with two hands and said, "Grazzi." The full weight of his words struck John as he realized the man was saying goodbye. Niccolò then pointed to the door.
John was overcome with a sense of foreboding. Unable to resist the pull he stepped through the door and found himself in the foyer of the AirBnB he'd rented a year before. Or rather, four centuries in the future.
Listlessly he walked up the staircase and found the room, with his iPhone still plugged into the outlet. After checking his travel pouch--yes, his passport was still there--he looked outside his window and saw a batch of tourists following a man carrying a flag who while herding them along that historic ancient path. John's eyes became moist as he thought of Maria and little Leonardo.
He never forgot his journey to the past, and the lessons he learned about love, friendship, and the enduring power of human connection. And whenever he returned to Florence, something he would do every spring for the rest of his life, he always felt a sense of nostalgia and wonder, remembering that time when he had lived among the Medicis, and felt truly alive.
* * *
In 2023, during his eighth trip to Florence to pay homage he did as he always had done, reflected on that strange chapter which seemed increasingly unreal. While in the airport in Paris Evans purchased a copy of The Atlantic to read on the plane. One of the articles was about a surprising revelation that Leonardo DeCaprio had come across while doing genealogical research.
The story began with a museum administrator who had discovered a folio of unpublished writings by Machiavelli. The author of The Prince had gone into great detail describing a man from the future named John who lived for a season with the Medicis and talked much about the future. Experts at first dismissed the papers as a hoax because they were uncannily accurate about so many things. North and South America were mentioned. So, too, were many names of famous 20th century Italians including Enrico Fermi, Mussolini, a tenor named Luciano Pavarotti and an actor named Leonardo DiCaprio.
The Atlantic reprinted one of the pages from this folio and a page from the original manuscript for The Prince to show how identical the handwriting was. By using the latest forensic technology to examine the paper and ink, a pair of scientists from Milan confirmed that not only was the paper identical but the ink as well.
The main point of the article, however, was not simply that something inexplicable had happened. The lengthy article was a story of DeCaprio's own personal quest to trace his genealogical roots. To his astonishment, he found that his family not only lived in Florence during the time of the Medicis, but that during that time he had a mother named Mary and a father named John who, according to Machiavelli's notes, said he was an American.
* * *
On the flight from Paris to Florence, Evans reflected on the incredible tale he'd just read. Then a niggling thought entered his brain. He tried to push it away but it wouldn't leave him. Evans was a writer and a researcher. In the early 1990s he had completed an incredibly detailed outline of the many branches of his family tree for his mother, brother and sisters, going all the way back to 12th century England, seeking to prove a family legend of royal roots. Despite failing in this, he found the whole process satisfying nevertheless.
In 2004 Evans heard a couple friends talking about new genetic tools that people were using to learn more about their roots. "I found out that I have German and Spanish roots that I never knew about," said one.
"I have roots that go back to Africa and a branch from the Netherlands," said another.
When John Evans got his results from Ancestry.com he learned about an Italian line he'd never uncovered before. You can guess where this is going. When he pursued his past looking for where this Italian line entered, it turned out to be a sailor during the time of Napoleon who had shipwrecked off the coast of Dover. And yes, as you've already guessed, while tracing that man's roots, John Evans learned that he was descended from himself.
* * *